E. Scott et al., "Novel Methods to Drive Pattern Engineering through and for Enhanced Use of 3D Technologies", in Proc. of 3DBODY.TECH 2019 - 10th Int. Conf. and Exh. on 3D Body Scanning and Processing Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 22-23 Oct. 2019, pp. 211-221, doi:10.15221/19.211.
Title:
Novel Methods to Drive Pattern Engineering through and for Enhanced Use of 3D Technologies
Authors:
Emma SCOTT 1, Simeon GILL 2, Carol MCDONALD 3
1 Fashion Should Empower, Vancouver Island BC, Canada;
2 The University of Manchester, UK;
3 Gneiss Concept, Washougal, WA, USA
Abstract:
Key obstacles to apparel digitization, frequently and symptomatically observed as limitations within 3D technologies, can be summarized as a lack of theory to quantify body shape and garment ease. Whether discussing garment fit on parametric avatars, automated virtual garment design, mass garment customization, improved garment sizing, or accurate size prediction, apparel digitization has repeatedly been hindered by a lack of theory linking the garment and its shaping requirements to the human form. This is because neither 1D (tape measure) dimensions nor a 3D flattened polygon mesh can quantify body shape with respect to developing garment patterns conducive to apparel manufacturing.
While novel pattern-engineering theory offers body-to-pattern guidance to isolate ease and body shape dimensions, acquiring the required measurements (outside the scope of both ISO boundaries and current measurement extraction software) has proven prohibitive. To prove scan-to-pattern digital viability a study explored the potential for updated measurement extraction software to access underutilized body scan data to drive Clone Block body-to-pattern theory. Solidworks 3D software was used to manually extract measurements from a body scan and Intelligent Shaping software was used for automated Clone Block pattern development. The suitability of the measurements for supporting body-to-pattern theory was then tested based on the ability of the resulting pattern to hug body morphology while maintaining horizontal and vertical fabric grain.
The results of the study indicate automated measurement acquisition to drive Clone Block shaping methodologies for scan-to-pattern automation is feasible. Based on the premise that garment fit is the result of fit-reality (body shape) plus fit-preference (ease), this study is significant in offering a means by which underutilized scanned body data may be accessed to quantify body shape and ease. Further study should confirm that updated measurement extraction software can automate the retrieval of measurement data and the Clone Block® scan-to-pattern methods (used extensively in a bespoke environment) work on an extended range of body shapes including bodies with dysmorphia. Discussions surrounding ease distribution for body shape should also be studied for foundational mathematical fit-preference and ease theory.
Details:
Full paper: 19211scott.pdf
Proceedings: 3DBODY.TECH 2019, 22-23 Oct. 2019, Lugano, Switzerland
Pages: 211-221
DOI: 10.15221/19.211
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