S. Morlock et al., "XL Plus mMen - New Data on Garment Sizes", in Proc. of 7th Int. Conf. on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 2016, pp. 255-264, https://doi.org/10.15221/16.255.
Title:
XL Plus mMen - New Data on Garment Sizes
Authors:
Simone MORLOCK, Andreas SCHENK, Anke KLEPSER, Andreas SCHMIDT
Hohenstein Institut für Textilinnovation gGmbH, Boennigheim, Germany
Abstract:
As part of the R&D project "Plus sizes men" (IGF 17460 N) the special body shapes of men with body volumes and circumferences above standard garment sizes have been analyzed. New sizing charts for men with plus sizes have been generated, specific body shapes were identified and optimized basic patterns have been developed.
Lack of physical data for developing clothing in plus sizes: The demand from retailers for plus size fashion is continuously growing. The market share of large menswear on the market has increased significantly. Although there is a need for well-fitting plus size clothes, no reliable anthropometric data was available so far. For that reason, the "Plus sizes men" research project was initiated in order to develop reliable sizing charts for men XL plus. A sizing survey was carried out using 3D scanner technology. Within the project, 664 men with chest circumferences of 120 cm up to 175 cm were scanned.
New sizing chart for menswear, sizes 60 to 78: On basis of the survey results, new sizing charts for menswear were developed covering the German sizes 60 to 78 and describing five figure types as well as five body height types. The sizing chart "Plus sizes men" is linked to the SizeGERMANY sizing system, in order to achieve the widest possible acceptance on the market. Furthermore, time target group specific measurements have been measured and analyzed.
Definition of morphotypes: Body shape variety of big sizes is huge. Therefore, shape analyses were performed and morphotypes, e.g. specific abdominal forms of men, were defined.
3D body models as basis for fit mannequins, 3D pattern construction and simulation: On the basis of the new body measurements, virtual 3D body models were generated. These 3D models represent target group specific average body shapes, like the stomach shape, for individual sizes.
Optimized basic patterns based on 3D scan data: Optimized basic patterns for trousers and jackets were developed based on the 3D body models. These 3D models - available as polygon mesh - have to be converted into 3D NURBS planes to be flattened. After flattening, optimized pattern geometry can be reproduced. By translating 3D body geometric information into 2D pattern, the fit can be significantly improved.
Details:
Full paper: 16.255.pdf
Proceedings: 3DBST 2016, 30 Nov.-1 Dec. 2016, Lugano, Switzerland
Pages: 255-264
DOI: 10.15221/16.255
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