T. Alrushaydan et al., "Enhancing Pattern Construction by Body Scanning: The Importance of Curves", Proc. of 3DBODY.TECH 2020 - 11th Int. Conf. and Exh. on 3D Body Scanning and Processing Technologies, Online/Virtual, 17-18 Nov. 2020, #56, https://doi.org/10.15221/20.56.
Enhancing Pattern Construction by Body Scanning: The Importance of Curves
Tarfah ALRUSHAYDAN, Simeon GILL, Kristina BRUBACHER, Steven G. HAYES
The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
This paper will discuss the enhancement of trouser pattern construction through the utilisation of 3D body scanning. It will discuss the lower body shapes -pattern -garment relationship. It will focus on the curves that are required to suitably develop trousers from 3D body scans.
It is acknowledged that 3D Body scanning offers more anthropometric data on the body than had been previously possible to collect from traditional methods of measurement. However, there exist differences between these two methods of measurement and limitations within the existing 3D body scanning process at certain locations of the body; namely the armhole curve, the armscye, the bust, the neck curve and the crotch.
This research began with eighteen methods of pattern cutting for trousers, the measurements were taken from a 3D body scanner in order to draft the pattern using Lectra. The data outputs from this were then entered into Excel for analysis and comparison and to see if there were any inconsistencies for ease or arc definition for different morphologies. It was noticed that during the pattern making process traditional linear Euclidian methods of measurement were used, whereas the body is shaped with curves, convex or concave, and these seem not to be given their importance in the pattern construction process within a 3D environment. This necessitated an investigation into a new approach using hybrid calculations using Euclidian and non- Euclidian geometry to incorporate and calculate the curves in 3D.
The increased adoption of technology and environmental issues caused by fast fashion have propelled the concept of mass customisation to the fore. Greater precision in 3D scan data which relates directly to the lower body shape has huge implications for customer satisfaction and the garment manufacturing industry.
3D Body Scanning, Anthropometrics, Lower Body shapes, pattern construction, Hybrid calculation of measurements
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